SOUTHERN AFRICA

Linda Paz Soldan

Interested in Africa's magic?  One of the best trips my husband and I have ever taken was to Zimbabwe and South Africa last summer.  It's a bit far--we flew out of Lima on a Saturday night; three airlines and lots of flying later we landed in Harare on Monday afternoon.  Argentine Airlines was a cramped and uncomfortable flight, but the flight over the Atlantic on Malaysian Airlines with very few passengers enabled us to stretch out on the seats and get a good night's sleep!

In Zimbabwe, we enjoyed most camping in Mana Pools to the north and on the Zambezi River.  We took game walks into the bush, coming across wart hogs, zebras, impalas, elands, baboons, etc. along the way and giving wide berth to the elephants busy stuffing leaves, bark, and grasses into their mouths. Canting down the Zambezi River between families of hippopotamuses that popped their heads up at the sound of oars banging against the side of the canoe (we wanted to let them know we were  coming in advance, so they wouldn't all of a sudden come up beneath the canoe and capsize us!), solitary crocodiles that slipped silently into the water at our approach, and water buffalo that raised their heads from the low islets where they graze in the river to watch us pass was a singularly memorable experience. Coming into such close contact with those animals (and in their territory!!) is awe inspiring!!  It's also amazing at how those hippos, crocodiles and water buffalo inspired us to row at a very fast pace for 3 1/2 hours.  The person into whose hands we put our lives is HENRY MURADZIKWA, professional guide, for TSORO River Safaris, P.O. Box 161, Kariba, Zimbabwe, Tel.: (263-61) 2426/2925, Fax: (263-61) 2426, (or once you are in Kariba: Stand No. 787, Kariwa House Sable Drive, Kariba). Incredible man, extremely competent (we're still alive!) and knowledgeable.  Highly recommended.

Another great trip (just a few hours away from Victoria Falls) is to Botswana--to the Chobe River between Botswana and Namibia.  Enormous herds of elephants bathing at the river and grazing in the grasslands.  Lots of elusive giraffes and skitterish zebras dot the landscape, and water monitors, crocodiles, Egyptian geese, spoonbill storks, etc. fill the waterways.

Outside Harare, near Marondera (which unfortunately has seen some big problems in the last months), is a fascinating game conservancy called  mire.  The owners have collected and cared for animals that have been orphaned or are threatened by extinction...so you can see, among other unusual sights, a herd of water buffalo led by a 27 year old elephant that was raised by the herd and guards them fiercely.

The Cape, Cape Town, and Robben Island in South Africa are also amazing places to visit.  I've wandered on too long about Africa, but it's a continent well worth visiting.  I'd be happy to provide more information for anyone interested.