Interested in Africa's magic? One of the best trips my
husband and I have ever taken was to Zimbabwe and South
Africa last summer. It's a bit far--we flew out of Lima
on a Saturday night; three airlines and lots of flying later we
landed in Harare on Monday afternoon. Argentine Airlines
was a cramped and uncomfortable flight, but the flight over the
Atlantic on Malaysian Airlines with very few passengers enabled
us to stretch out on the seats and get a good night's sleep!
In Zimbabwe, we enjoyed most camping in Mana Pools to
the north and on the Zambezi River. We took game
walks into the bush, coming across wart hogs, zebras, impalas,
elands, baboons, etc. along the way and giving wide berth to the
elephants busy stuffing leaves, bark, and grasses into their mouths.
Canting down the Zambezi River between families of hippopotamuses
that popped their heads up at the sound of oars banging against
the side of the canoe (we wanted to let them know we were
coming in advance, so they wouldn't all of a sudden come up beneath
the canoe and capsize us!), solitary crocodiles that slipped silently
into the water at our approach, and water buffalo that raised
their heads from the low islets where they graze in the river
to watch us pass was a singularly memorable experience. Coming
into such close contact with those animals (and in their territory!!)
is awe inspiring!! It's also amazing at how those hippos,
crocodiles and water buffalo inspired us to row at a very fast
pace for 3 1/2 hours. The person into whose hands we put
our lives is HENRY MURADZIKWA, professional guide, for TSORO River
Safaris, P.O. Box 161, Kariba, Zimbabwe, Tel.: (263-61) 2426/2925,
Fax: (263-61) 2426, (or once you are in Kariba: Stand No. 787,
Kariwa House Sable Drive, Kariba). Incredible man, extremely competent
(we're still alive!) and knowledgeable. Highly recommended.
Another great trip (just a few hours away from Victoria Falls)
is to Botswana--to the Chobe River between Botswana
and Namibia. Enormous herds of elephants bathing at the
river and grazing in the grasslands. Lots of elusive giraffes
and skitterish zebras dot the landscape, and water monitors, crocodiles,
Egyptian geese, spoonbill storks, etc. fill the waterways.
Outside Harare, near Marondera (which unfortunately
has seen some big problems in the last months), is a fascinating
game conservancy called mire. The owners have collected
and cared for animals that have been orphaned or are threatened
by extinction...so you can see, among other unusual sights, a
herd of water buffalo led by a 27 year old elephant that was raised
by the herd and guards them fiercely.
The Cape, Cape Town, and Robben Island in South
Africa are also amazing places to visit. I've wandered on
too long about Africa, but it's a continent well worth visiting.
I'd be happy to provide more information for anyone interested.