Mark Hughes (3/02)

Myanmar (Burma) is a fascinating country to visit.  There is a variety of things to see and do, and the people are some of the friendliest in the world.  It is also incredibly cheap.
 
Even if you don't know much about Buddhism, there is no getting around the fact that this is a Buddhist country.  There are temples and stupas everywhere, monks and nuns on every street, and a calm attitude among the Myanmar people.
 
Myanmar Buddhism has taken on some unique aspects of its own.  There are elements of Hinduism and beliefs from earlier times in spirits called nats. Astrology is also mixed in there.  Myanmar astrology is based on the day of the week a person was born.  There are eight signs (the extra one is for Wednesdays (the morning and evening are considered as separate).
 
Because of the very non-democratic government and its involvement in the drug trade (or at least support of), there are people who feel that foreigners should not visit the country.  The thinking is that money spent will simply support the government.  At one point the country was socialist and the government owned most of the tourist industry so it actually did get most of the tourist dollars.  Now, however, most of the industry has been privatized, and it is easy to not stay in government-owned hotels and to eat at private restaurants (especially if you are a budget traveler).
 
The government does realize this and insures that it will still get some of your money, though.  Every foreigner must exchange US$ 200 in the airport for Foreign Exchange Certificates (FEC).  These are just like money and have the value of US dollars, but cannot be changed back into dollars at the end of your trip.
 
The $200 goes pretty far.  With filling restaurant meals that cost less than a dollar and hotels that charged from $6-12 per night, it was almost hard to spend money.  Entrance fees and airfare were the only expensive things I had to deal with.
 
With only a week in Myanmar, I had to do a Best of -type trip.  I went to Yangon (the capital formerly, Rangoon), Mandalay, and Bagan.

Yangon

Things to do:
Shwedagon Paya; A temple complex with historical and religious significance to the people of Myanmar.  Yangon's jewel.  Go early in the morning fewer crowds, better light for photos, and the sidewalks are not hot (you have to go barefoot).  Crowds gather for sunset.  Entry: $5.  Guide: $5 (one will find you recommended). Bogyoke Aung San Market; Large central market.

Hotel:
Be sure that your hotel has a backup generator.  Power blackouts are normal throughout Myanmar.  It seems that they will tell you right off if they have one.  Most hotels and guesthouses include breakfast (choice of eggs, toast, juice, and coffee/tea).
Eastern Hotel, 194/196 Bo Myat Htun St., Pazundaung Township, Phone: (95-1) 293815, 293168, 293169, Fax: (95-1) 294346; A clean hotel with a very friendly staff.  Located on a main but quiet street.  Close to the river but not very close to some of the more central shopping areas.  A single room with bathroom, AC, and cable TV was $12.  Price included a basically unlimited breakfast.

Restaurants:
Theik Di Shin, No. 331, 333, Anawrahta Street, corner of 1st Street, Lanmadaw Township, Phone: 223503; Traditional Myanmar food.  Nice atmosphere.  A meal cost about $20 higher than many other places.

ATK:
Aung Thuka, 17 (A) 1st St., between Shwegondaing and Dhammazedi Lans; Myanmar food.  This is a few blocks from Shwedagon Paya.  It is popular with locals so you should be able to ask for directions.  It is basic but clean.  You pick what you want from a hot table.  Recommended.

Mandalay

Things to do:
Mandalay Marionettes and Cultural Show, Garden Villa Theatre, 66th Street, between 26th and 27th Streets; An hour-long performance of the famed Burmese puppets.  The shows are set up for foreign tourists in an attempt to keep the art alive; the locals would rather watch TV or videos.
Mandalay Hill; Great view over the city.  You can take a bus (tour groups take that option) or walk up the stairs (without shoes).  There are a lot of stairs but there are rest areas and Buddhist shrines along the way.  I recommend the walk.  Crowds form for sunset.

Hotel:
E. T. Hotel, No. 129 (A), 83rd Street, between 23rd and 24th Streets, Phone: (02) 25491, 38695; Friendly staff.  Clean.  Single with bathroom, breakfast, and AC was $8.  If you are leaving early they will give you a box breakfast.

Restaurants:
Shwe Khaing, 30th Street, between 65th and 66th Streets, Phone: 33192; Barbecue place.  Very good.  Very local.  Very recommended.  They also have another branch in Mandalay and two in Yangon.
Aye Myit Tar, No. 530, 81st Street, between 36th and 37th Streets, Phone: 31627; Traditional Myanmar food.  Very friendly staff.  I was served more than I could eat for about 80 cents.

Bagan

Bagan is actually the name of the area.  There are three main towns to stay in.  I stayed in Nyaung U.  There are a number of places to eat and cheap places to stay in that town.

Getting there:
If you have the time, there is a boat, which runs from Mandalay to Bagan.  There is a fast boat that takes about nine hours.  Note that the fast boat doesn't run on Wednesdays so you have to take the slow boat.  My voyage took 17 hours.  The views in the morning are quite scenic.  After that, there's not much in the great view department.  If you want a little down time then I recommend it.  Ticket: $10 (slow boat)/$16 (fast boat).  Please don't encourage the begging kids at the stops.

Things to do:
Obviously, the temples and ruins are the thing to do.  If you are feeling reasonably fit, rent a bike.  You have complete freedom.  If not, hire a horse cart and driver.  Either way, buy a good map and guide.  The Lonely Planet guide does a fair job, but the maps are small and you are flipping back and forth to get the information you want.

Hotel:
Inn Wa Guest House, Main Road, Nyaung U, Phone: 062-7015, 70126;  Clean, comfortable rooms.  They rent bicycles.  Cable TV in the lobby.  If you arrange ahead of time someone can meet you at the boat and take you to the guesthouse for free (transport to the airport is not free).  Single room with bathroom, AC, and breakfast was $6.  Highly recommended.

Restaurants:
Golden Myanmar; Main Road, near a travel office and before the wall, Old Bagan;  Traditional Myanmar food.  Cheap and filling.  Seating is all open air (and shaded).  Lots of locals were eating there.
Sarabha Restaurant, Main Road, between Golden Myanmar and the wall, Old Bagan; Recommended in the Lonely Planet guide.  I didn't find the food to be anything special.  Prices were a little higher, but in Myanmar that is a matter of a quarter or so.  Nice setting, but lots of flies.
Bagan Italian Tratoria and Pizzeria; Main Road, Nyaung U; If you are looking for a change from traditional Myanmar food this place does pretty well.  There is another Italian place across the street.